Saturday, August 15, 2015

Saturday, August 15

NOVA SCOTIA

Thank you, my friends, for being interested in my Great Adventure and for being patient when I could not post due to technology and connection issues.

I hope you enjoy my photos. I have taken thousands over the six weeks we were gone and hope those selected help you get a feeling for my daily amazement and appreciation for this very special place.

I have spent most of today working to finish my blog and listening to hours of Cape Breton fiddlers and pipers. It was great to revisit these places.

By the way, Kirby is a great companion. She adjusted to all situations, was curious to see what was out there when we stopped the camper, and was friendly to every stranger who wanted to pat her. We met a lot of nice people because of her - I'll never forget the first. A young man from New Zealand tenting next to us came over and exclaimed "I miss my cat!"



Sunday, August 9 - Tuesday, August 11

Arrived in Yarmouth on a rainy day. Purchased our tickets for the ferry to Portland. We tried to find a movie theater but show was on too late - had missed the afternoon show. We tried to find a bowling alley (was a joke throughout the trip), but it was closed on Sunday. We ended up visiting a fireman's museum.
 Bill's son said it looked like Santa on vacation. :-)

On Monday we explored Yarmouth. Nice town with lovely colors and architecture.














Our last night in Nova Scotia was special. We went exploring outside the town limits and found a lighthouse, west-facing for the sunset, and we met yet some more wonderful people. One group was tourists from Italy, another group were young men showing off their souped up cars. All friendly and welcoming. A woman who had been traveling alone in a camper since January stopped to say hi. We cooked dinner right there in the parking lot, then stepped out for some sunset shots.
















Tuesday - on the ferry for Portland. Why did it go by so quickly? If you get a chance to get to Nova Scotia - go. It is an amazing, wonderful place with the most amazing and wonderful people.
Saturday, August 8

Woke to a beautiful sunny day. We slowly began to make our way down toward Yarmouth, where we would take the ferry to Portland, Maine.

We made many stops at historical churches, and even a water-driven sawmill museum along the way. One nice stop was at St. Mary's lighthouse.












Did you know that I love to photograph anything rusty and I have a liking for anchors!














That night we stayed at Lake Breeze Campground on Darlings Lake. The very nice manager supplied Bill with worms, a chair, and advice about catching very big bass. They weren't biting that night, but it was fun. Once again a great sunset night, this time over calm water for nice reflection photography.

Wednesday, August 5 - Friday, August 7

Fort Anne was built to protect the harbor of Annapolis Royal from the French in the 1700s. We visited the historic site and learned about the lives of the indigenous peoples, English, and French during that time.











We stayed in a Digby campground which bordered a walking path which was formerly a train track. We walked into town, visited the harbor and had the famous Digby scallops.

The next day we drove down the narrow Digby Neck which has the Bay of Fundy on One side and St. Mary's Bay on the other. The land narrows and ferries take you to adjacent small islands. We took the first ferry to Long Island. There we met Paul, a wonderful young man traveling on his motorcycle. We met on the path to the Standing Rock and we got a nice shot of him standing next to it!


After the return trip on the ferry we stayed overnight in Sandy Cove - we found a beautiful sandy beach with amazing views. Another sunset night.












The next day we drove back to Digby, exploring along the way.
Monday, August 3 and Tuesday, August 4

As we made our way down the shore of the Bay of Fundy, we encountered many examples of harbors at low tide.














After exploring all day, we began to head for a campsite shown on our map in Port George. Turning that camper around is not always easy but we did it many times because we could not find the campground. Finally we spotted two campers parked overlooking the water. We stopped to ask the people near the road if they knew where it was. They said that it did not exist anymore, but would we like to join them in their spot. Can you imagine? We did and had a wonderful time sitting around Brian and Marg's campfire chatting. Did I tell you that Nova Scotia has the most wonderful people in the world?

When we left the next morning, they were gone - they lived about 30 minutes away - but they left a note thanking us and inviting us back anytime. Hope we can. During our campfire talks we heard about a tidal power generating plant in Fort Ann. We visited there and even got a tour down in the plant itself - hardhats and all. We stayed at a campsite near there.

Sunday, August 2

During our travels today we made two awesome discoveries.

First we visited Burncoat Lighthouse. The lighthouse was nice, but the sight of the red walls of the bay at low tide was otherworldly. The record tide there was 50 feet and because of the extra pull of the full moon in July, we viewed it at 49.6 feet.

















Next we encountered the most amazing view into a beautiful farm valley with the Bay of Fundy nearby. Totally unexpected. There just happened to be a campground right across the road called "Overlook."  We shot some that afternoon and went back at night for moon-over-the-water fun.


Thursday, July 30

Today I learned the significance of the tides on the Bay of Fundy.  At high tide the ocean runs strongly into the rivers and harbors in this bay. At low tide they recede just as strongly. They have run up to a record of 50 feet! The Bay of Fundy starts out large and wide and as the tides run in, then the waters are compressed and forced up higher as the bay narrows. They come so quickly you must be careful not to be trapped in a compromising spot.

We went back to Advocate Harbor today at low tide. Incredible. All the boats were on the bottom of the empty harbor. They were strapped to the pier so they would not tip over. The tide was just starting to come in in this picture.





We stayed at a Spencer Island campground that night, which was right on the beach. At low tide we could walk way out, which we did. We sat around a big campfire and chatted with the friendly campers next to us - from Nova Scotia. Friendliest people in the world. Love them.






Wen

Wednesday, July 29

We vowed to come back to the little town of Advocate when the fog was gone and we could actually see it. But the fog that morning persisted as we wandered down some little side roads nearby; we ended up at the famous Cape d'Or. We drove up on a very narrow and pot-holed road not expecting to find much there, but it was a gem.

There is parking lot with a little faux lighthouse in it and some information signs about the historical and geological significance of this place. Two special things to me were the tides of the Bay of Fundy and the riptide cause from strong currents colliding on rock formations. Pretty impressive. Bill and Kirby and I walked down a long steep hill to the lighthouse and a restaurant at the bottom. The lighthouse is surrounded by cliffs and land ending as a rocky walkway jutting out into the bay. The fog was lifting as we walked revealing some of the most beautiful landscape seen yet.



 We stayed overnight in the parking lot at the top.
Ate dinner at a picnic table overlooking this beauty and took sunset shots from the viewing platform as well as at the bottom by the lighthouse.

Tuesday, July 28
Quite a ride back to Nova Scotia after crossing to New Brunswick from PEI. We were headed toward the Bay of Fundy. It was very foggy and rainy as we pulled into Advocate Harbor. Bill knew it was low tide and something unique, but it was dark and too foggy so we found a campsite to rest.

The next morning was still foggy but light enough to see the fishing boats as they left the harbor at high tide.



I knew nothing about the tides of the Bay of Fundy and Bill knew I had a big surprise coming.










Friday, July 24 - Monday, July 27

PEI
 Lots of driving and we took the ferry over to Prince Edward Island. Found that we had transitioned from the fishing villages and coves to vast farmlands, although when we searched as the days went by, we found some nice ocean views. The southeastern drive from the ferry was beautiful.









We found these long rolls of hay to be curious. Can you imagine the size of the machine that does it?










Beautiful lighthouse next to sand dunes.












Fish houses near the lighthouse.












Visited an Acadian museum and were served hot cider.











Tuesday was our last day on PEI. We passed fields of yellow flowers (I am told it is canola) as we headed for the 8 mile long bridge to New Brunswick. We wanted to go back to Nova Scotia.





Thursday, July 23

As the skies cleared we made out way down the trail to the Celtic Interpretation Center in Justique. There we had a coffee and snack while being entertained by two fiddlers and a piano player. The young girl who played the fiddle also did some step dancing for us. Wish I could do that. I know I would trip over my feet. The difference between this and other performances was that the artists stopped and chatted with the audience. Very cool and fun. We monopolized a table for well over and hour. Bill took lots of video which I will post when he gets it to me. Also bought a compilation cd of Cape Breton artists and listened a lot during the rest of the trip.

 




Wednesday, July 22

Woke this morning in love with Cape Breton music - the fiddles, pianos, spoon players last night just makes you feel happy.  After breakfast and packing up we returned to the Doryman for a cup of coffee before heading down the Ceilidh Trail to Mabou.

The skies opened up as we arrived at our campground in a downpour, getting soaked setting up. We had seen signs for a ceilidh at the town museum and we drove back into town to attend. The word "ceilidh" loosely translates from Gaelic as a kitchen gathering where families and friends meet for music and dancing. This gathering was traditional as families in groups and singularly performed their skills at dancing (step and square dances), guitars, pianos, fiddling, singing. The old museum we were welcomed to boasted of traditional exhibits and we barely fit in with all the chairs they set up. Afterward, we were served tea and chatted with these wonderful people like we were old friends.



Thursday, July 23, 2015

Sunday, July 19
We drove over several huge mountains today, 400-500 meters, sometimes traveling over their highest crest for miles before heading steeply back down. Again, we stopped at every official viewing pulloff to take photos. We ended up at Corney Brook campground on the west coast of Cape Breton. Cold very windy. Was hoping to get some sunset shots since we are on the west coast, but it is cloudy tonight.. Plan to return to this area for sunset shots tomorrow or next day.
     Monday, July 20
Wow. The ol' camper was rockin' last night. 40-50 mph wind gusts off the ocean all night long. Didn't sleep much. People in tents were in nearby huts this morning and we watched one couple next to us struggle to pack up their tent, throwing themselves on it to hold it down and being knocked over. There is also a tent framework only draped over and fireplace by the bathrooms. Kirby doesn't like the beach because of the surf.

 Tuesday, July 21
Stayed at Cheticamp campground in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park last night and tonight. Cheticamp is a unique fishing town on the water. There is an island peninsula that we drove to where there are cows wandering in the road on the way to a lighthouse– see image in this post of the view back to the town.

Laundry and errand day. The bank to get some Canadian cash, the liquor store,the grocery store, the post office. Found a pub in the fishing town of Cheticamp that has a fiddler for entertainment tonight. We are going! Took a ride inland to Margaree. Small hills and some open fields. Vermonty.
 


After dinner we returned to the Doryman Pub and Grill for some fiddle playing. The place was packed and we sat with a nice couple from Philadelphia. Marc Boudreau from Halifax was amazing fiddler causing much foot stomping and clapping, and a couple of women stood up and did some step dancing. A real highlight of our trip. We are Facebook friends now so we can post some of the video Bill took so you may see it when I get home.
 Didn't get back to the campground until midnight!